What is the best glazing technique for beginners?

Dipping is the easiest and most forgiving. Hold the piece with tongs, dip into the glaze bucket for 3 seconds, and pull out smoothly. You get an even coat every time.

How many coats of glaze should I apply?

For dipping: one dip is usually enough. For brushing: 2-3 coats, letting each dry between applications. Too thick and the glaze runs; too thin and the color is washed out.

Can you layer different glazes?

Yes — layering glazes creates unique effects. Apply the base glaze first, let it dry, then add the second. Different glaze combinations react differently in the kiln, creating surprising depth and color.

Why does my glaze crawl or pinhole?

Crawling usually means the bisqueware was dusty or oily — always clean before glazing. Pinholes often come from firing too fast. Slow down the firing schedule, especially in the last 200 degrees.

Pottery Glazing Techniques — Learn to Glaze from Master Potter Stephen Jepson

Why Glazing Matters

You can throw a perfect pot and ruin it with bad glazing. You can also save an average piece with a stunning glaze. Glazing is where science meets art — understanding how different chemicals react in a kiln at 2,000°F is what separates amateur pottery from professional work.

Stephen Jepson spent decades developing his glazing approach at the University of Central Florida. His lessons cover not just the how, but the why — so you can predict results instead of hoping for them.

Core Glazing Techniques

Beginner

Dipping

The fastest, most consistent method. Hold the piece with tongs, submerge in the glaze bucket for 3 seconds, pull out smoothly. Gives an even coat every time. Best for: uniform coverage on bowls, mugs, and vases.

Beginner

Brushing

More control, more time. Use a soft brush, apply 2-3 coats, let each dry before the next. Brush marks can add character or be smoothed out. Best for: detailed work, small areas, and controlled color placement.

Intermediate

Pouring

Pour glaze over the piece or inside vessels too deep to dip. Rotate the piece as you pour for even coverage. Creates flowing patterns and natural drip effects. Best for: large pieces, interior glazing.

Intermediate

Wax Resist

Apply wax to areas you want unglazed, then dip or brush glaze over the whole piece. The wax repels the glaze, creating clean patterns. Best for: decorative pieces, exposed clay texture, two-tone effects.

Advanced

Layering

Apply one glaze, let it dry, then apply a different glaze on top. The two glazes interact in the kiln, creating depth, color breaking, and effects you can't get any other way. Best for: unique, one-of-a-kind finishes.

Advanced

Spraying

Airbrush or spray gun for the most even, controlled application. Requires ventilation and equipment, but produces flawless gradients. Best for: professional production, gradient effects, very thin coats.

Common Glazing Mistakes

Glaze too thick — Runs down the piece in the kiln, bonds to the shelf. Ruined piece, ruined shelf. Keep coats even and clean the bottom.
Glaze too thin — Washed-out colors, rough texture, possibly not food-safe. Add another coat.
Dirty bisqueware — Dust or oil on the surface causes crawling (glaze pulling away). Always wipe clean before glazing.
Not cleaning the foot — Always wipe glaze from the bottom 1/4 inch. Any glaze touching the kiln shelf will permanently bond to it.
Wrong firing temperature — Every glaze has a specific cone rating. Too low = rough and underdeveloped. Too high = runs and melts off the piece.

Choosing Your First Glazes

Start with 2-3 reliable glazes in colors you like. Commercial pre-mixed glazes are consistent and tested — you know what you'll get. As you advance, you can start mixing your own from raw materials for unique effects.

A clear glaze — Shows the clay body, good for textured pieces
A warm color — Amber, honey, or celadon green. Forgiving on slight thickness variations.
A dark contrast — Tenmoku (dark brown/black). Beautiful with lighter clay bodies.

Pottery Glazing Techniques